-Deadpool Desert Eagle Finishing Instructions-
A pic of the master mk xix before molding.
Supplies you will need:
- A can of Black primer**
- A can bright Chrome spray paint**
- Black acrylic hobby paint. (I use the Apple barrel stuff available at walmart in the craft section.)
- Red Acrylic Hobby paint.
- Paper towels
- A lint free cloth
- 1/2″ Drill bit (Should you like to drill out the barrel)
- Blue masking tape
- Silver Rub-N-Buff [optional]
**I prefer Rustoleum paints, but it doesn’t really matter as long as you purchase quality paints and stick with the same brand.
- Start by sanding any molding imperfections out and filling any bubbles from the casting process. I use Bondo 801 spot putty. You can get it at most hardware stores. It is thin and sands easily after about 20 minutes. http://bondo.com/bondo-professional-glazing-spot-putty-801.html#pT7DoOKfEGWZKQ v2.97
- Once you are satisfied with the smoothness of your prop. You may wish to drill out the barrel for a more realistic look. This is a 50 caliber gun, so that 1/2″ Drill bit should be used. You only have to drill in a half of an inch or so to make a satisfyingly realistic “business end”
- Now you should wash the prop in warm soapy water (Dawn Dish soap works best.) to remove any release agents or dust from sanding. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
- Spray on several light coats of black primer. Wait a few minutes between coats for the previous coat to dry.
- Allow to cure several hours/overnight.
- Now you must mask off all of the black parts of the gun with your blue tape. A quick Google search or a visit to our site will show you which parts are black. They consist of the grip, the forward and rear sight inserts, and the exposed parts of the magazine.
- Next, You will give the whole gun a quick dusting of the black primer. this will seal the tape seams and make for cleaner lines.
- While the dusting of black is drying, Shake the chrome paint for sever minutes to insure thorough mixture. Paint a light coat of the chrome paint on the gun. Once this has dried, apply another more light coat to cover (DON”T DRENCH IT!) It is preferable to end up doing 3 light coats than to apply too heavy of a coat and endure curing issues.
- Allow to cure for several hours/overnight.
- Remove the masking gently and take your time pulling the tape low against the prop and along the seams, not against them.
- Next, you will add a black wash to the gun. You do this by watering down some of the black acrylic paint and basically coating the entire prop taking special care to get it down in all the crevices. Using your paper towels or an old rag, blot away most of the black wash leaving the paint in the low spots and seams. (Also paint the inside of the barrel black, if you drilled it out.) Try to think about where dirt and oil would gather on a prop that is used and wiped clean occasionally. Don’t worry, if you mess up, just wipe clean with a wet rag and start over. once you are happy with the oily dirtiness, allow the acrylic to dry fully. You can now buff the whole prop with a soft lint-free cloth to give it a bit of an acrylic shine and add highlights by way of wiping the high spots of the prop.
- If you want to add additional highlights to the upper and outer edges of the gun, where it might have been rubbed shiny through years of holster sliding and bad guy thumping, you can do so with a very small amount of Rub-N-Buff on the tip of your finger. Dip your finger in the tiniest bit of the silver Rub-N-Buff and wipe most of it off on a paper towel. Rub your finger along the edges of the prop that would see friction to bring up the shine a bit. Allow this to dry and gently buff with a soft cloth to make the edges shine.
- All that is left now is to paint the tiny red dot that indicates the position of the safety. You will do this with the toothpick. You simply dip your toothpick in the red acrylic paint and touch the tip of it to the correct dimple in the space below the safety switch. Do this for both sides.
- Allow to dry and go make some Chimichangas.
Go here to print a PDF!